Hi everyone!  We are alive and well, now.  Had a bit of food poisoning in Nassau and confined to cabin for 3 days but much better now.  Probably won't be writing a lot on blog as internet connection is very limited.  But check now and then.  We are on our way to Columbia, having visited Jamaica yesterday.  Neither one of us got off the ship!  An auspicious beginning!  Hopefully will be back on soon.

One day out of San Diego and home

We have had to set our clocks ahead three times this week and are only 3 hours ahead of the east coast now.    Disembarkation ought to be fun.  We have to have our bags outside our cabin at 11 am this morning (April 23) and are the second group to disembark tomorrow morning starting around 10:30 am.  800 people offloaded and through customs in 3 hours? Quite a feat but we'll see.


This past week has been one of winding down, lectures everywhere on returning and how to cope with going back to routines at home, seeing family and friends and talking, or not, about our voyage.  The nicest evening was Thursday evening when we attended the Masquerade Ball and dinner, everyone dressed to the nines, but mostly skimpy nines by the female students.  The meal was delicious, we all sat at two tables next to one another:  Theresa and Paul and us at one table, and Denny, Jim, Joanne, Stan and Katie and a male student at the other table.  We had a champage cocktail in our cabin after the program which started at 5:30 pm where we saw a terrific video by Brittany of our entire trip, and then saw the final version of our rap video which was hilarious.  Annie, Amy and Justin did a great job and they said they are putting it on U-Tube!  Along with the TajMahal Shuffle kid.  Dinner was at 8 pm and a ball followed in the Student Union.


Parties are going on everywhere and tonight at 9 pm, everyone is bringing their leftover booze and snacks to the Glazer Lounge and it will be party time!  The Sea Salts, formerly known as Life Long Learners, have our last meeting at 4:30 pm and we've again invited faculty and staff to join us for pizza and I'm going to present Barbara with a small gift and thank you.  Then we're having dinner with our onboard family.


I always thought that all of this talk of creating a community onboard ship was a little silly but after living for 3-1/2 months with all of the faculty, staff, students, crew and Life Long Learners, that's exactly what has happened.  When you see the same people at breakfast every morning, in classes, lectures, play games with them, travel with them, participate in programs, etc., it's very much a small community, with all of the attendant problems, excitement and diversity.  Everyone asks if I would do the voyage again and my reply always is:  Not right away.  50+ days at sea is long, but I'd love to do the short trips in the near future.  We already have a trip to NZ planned in 2013 for an Altrusa Convention.

Hawaii - the Big Island

We arrived in Honolulu Saturday afternoon to take on fuel and everyone was ecstatic to be back in the US, although it's not really like the US.  Cell phones and cameras came out and everyone was talking and laughing.  We didn't know how anxious we would be to return and at the same time regret that the trip is coming to an end.  Talked to Kylie and Peta, Kylie called back - just because she could! - and I talked to Lil which was great.  She is feeling great and has recovered from her surgery.  Tried John, couldn't leave a message and left a message with Marlene.


We left Honolulu  and sailed to Hilo on the Big Island. arriving about 7 am Sunday morning.  We have arrived in 5 ports on Sunday morning!  I don't know if it's cheaper to dock on Sundays, or if it's because you can't buy booze on Sundays.  In either case, the towns are usually closed down, except for restaurants and churches.  We caught the Hertz shuttle and picked up an electric blue Mustang convertible, which Rick loved to drive around all the curves and up and down the mountains.  We drove over to Kona, on the western coast where we stayed in 2009, did some shopping and watched the tourists get off a huge cruise ship, ferried in on tenders. The downtown street was closed for an art show so we missed all the crazy little shops and restaurants.  Then we drove to the Hilton Resort (also has a Marriott now) that has a little shopping center and had lunch, parked near the beach and had a snooze!  Then we drove back to Hilo on Highway 190 where the Parker Ranch is located, and drove in fog and rain, until Rt. 19 where it immediately cleared up.  Had dinner at Pesto restaurant in downtown Hilo which was very good and stayed on the ship over night.

On Monday, we drove to the volcano, Kilauea and this time it was a bright, clear day and we saw the caldera with the crater and steam rolling out of it.  The rim of the caldera had steam pockets everywhere and even in the fields where we were standing.  The caldera fell 400 feet after the last eruption, March 7, 2011 and a huge mass of magma lies under the caldera, with some lava escaping at the eastern foot of the volcano  through tunnels which relieve the pressure on the main mass.  The viewing platform at the end of Rt. 130 was carried away by lava this past year.  Ken Hon, the "Geography Minute" professor on board and his wife Cheryl gave an excellent lecture on the volcano and showed a film they had filmed of the volcano.  They live on Hawaii, are volcanologists as well and Ken's voice is on the film shown at the Visitors Center.  The lava flow stopped about a month ago from the eruption which happened while we were away, much to the dismay of Ken and Cheryl.  So we did not see any red lava flowing.

We then drove the Road of Craters, saw several large craters and enjoyed the drive through ferns and pine trees and wild scrub.  Ran into bus load of FDP trippers from the ship at the lava pipes.  We left the Park, drove to the Orchid Shop and saw some of the most beautiful orchids in the world - one worth $25,000.  I was very tempted to stow one away in my luggage, but because we haven't gone through customs yet, we cannot take anything live on board, including food!  Although we went through immigation in Honolulu, we don't go through customs until San Diego.  We drove around Hilo, stopped at Richardson's Park and watched surf and swimmers, then Rick dropped me at ship and he returned the electric blue Mustang, as he must, back to Hertz.  Had a barbeque dinner, everyone on board by dock time and we sailed under a full moon at 8 pm.  Had to set clocks ahead 1 hour and will have to do that 3 more times before San Diego.  Talked to Brenda, having brunch with them Easter Sunday in La Jolla!  Cool!  Life is good.

Winding Down, almost in Hawaii

Adults can get up to the darnedest things when bored or left to their own devices.  I think I told you before that all of the students are divided into groups called seas: Yellow Sea, Red Sea, etc. and the LLLs chose to be called Sea Salts.  We have done some crazy things in the Olympics, opening ceremonies, etc. and now we just recorded a rap song, with Betty and I narrating, and Peter rapping, about our time on board ship.  Amy, Justin and Annie are mixing the narration, music and video which is hilarious.  It's a takeoff on senior citizens and rap, and what we've done, or haven't done, on the voyage.


  Wed. evening Amy asked us all to go to the Lounge for some dance video at 9:15 pm.  (Before that we attended a wonderful lecture by a husband and wife professor  on Hawaii's volcanoes.)  Someone had put on a dance CD with crazy dances like the Chicken, and a few of us started dancing.  Before we knew it, everyone was dancing, including LLCs, faculty and staff and we danced for hours.  I haven't done that for years!  Later the younger set put on rap and apparently were up until 2:30 am.  Don't know why we haven't done this before now.  The bar is only open at 9 pm for an hour, but even the bartender ended up dancing.  Good times.  I guess the video is going to be shown at pre-port which is tomorrow evening.


Last night we saw a wonderful documentary on John Muir which Peter co-produced, much like Ken Burns' series last year on the national parks.  We have been to Muir Woods in San Francisco with son Pete,  many years ago, but I want to go back to  Yosemite and that might be our next trip!  We started collecting national park stickers for an album a couple of years ago.


The seas are much calmer and the weather has heated up.  The number of bikinis attest to the heat of the sun!  Rick and I are leasing a convertible and driving around to Kona and the beaches on Sunday.  When we were here a year or so ago, we rented a convertible and had a ball.  High school all over again.  I think that we are going to be bored when we get home!  Something going on every day and night on the ship and all the side trips have kept us very busy.  But we're looking forward to peace and quiet also!

Some thoughts......

Today is the first Tuesday April 12 and tomorrow we will have our second Tuesday, April 12!  We're crossing the international date line where we pick up an additional day.  Everyone on ship is asking:  The first April 12, or the second? when talking about a meeting or class.


Just attended an excellent lecture in Global Studies by Todd Shanks, our finance professor and Fullbright scholar in China.  Firstly, he indicated that 90% of the businesses in China are owned by private enterprises, including multinationals and the millions of small shop owners all over China .  Other statistics:  China produces 90% of all of the toys in the world, 70% of all the shoes (including Feragamos) and 50% of all the clothing.   So all you ladies buying these $1000 pairs of shoes - they were most likely made in China.  Also learned a new word:  hegemony which kind of describes the Chinese culture.  Because the government no longer owns all of the businesses, unemployment has skyrocketed.  Yet, those unemployed have not revolted against the government because they must believe that in the long run, capitalism is good for the country, and thus him.  Plus, the average wage for a Chinese in a factory is $1 a day; in Vietnam it is 10 cents a day.  So the capitalist in China could easily take their business to Vietnam and make a greater profit.  The problem is Vietnam does not have the improved infrastructure China has, ie, roads. 


As you can see, I am fascinated by a Communist country using capitalism in its own way, but still maintaining political control.  Imagine Americans allowing the government to build a dam flooding out 100,000 homes; moving 100,000 people into new villages and new homes?  That's what happened on the Yangtse River, you will recall.  Or clearing hundreds of slums to build the Bird's Nest and other builfdings for the Olympics.  Democracy protects us from unwanted government interference but takes a long time to reach a decision.  The Chinese Communist's 5-year plan is countrywide, with the government implementing the plan.  We  have 50 states with their own ideas of a plan.


Our guide told us that the Korean automobile Hyundai is manufactured/assembled in China. Guess we're not the only ones outsourceing our jobs.

Taipai and Keelung, Taiwan

I didn't include Taiwan with the Chinese cities because officially its status is debateable.  After the fall of the Chinese empire, two forces dominated China, the Nationalist Party or Kuomintang (KMT), and the Communist party.  In 1948-49 the Communists gained control over the KMT and Chiang Kai-shek fled to Taiwan, establishing a Nationalist government, taking with him many imperial treasures.  On Oct. 1, 1949, Chairman Mao Zedong pronounced the founding of the People's Republic of China in Beijing.  The National Museum in Taipai contains those imperial treasures, much to the chagrin of China, who has continually demanded them back.


Taiwan has always been the refuge of Chinese from the southern provinces when political differences forced them to flee.  Taiwan has a large Japanese population and, in fact, the city of Keelung, where we docked,  architecturally looks more Japanese than Chinese.  The U.S. entered into an Agreement to protect Taiwan from the mainland if it should be attacked and has provided equipment, including rockets aimed at the mainland!  However, Taiwan's largest trading partner is China and all the rhetoric  of the Cold War has cooled way down. 


Taiwan considers itself a democracy, and in fact, the Chinese cities of Singapore, Hong Kong and Shanghai kind of do too!  Economically, they are all entrepreneurial but the government in China has made it all too clear that there will be no political changes in China in the foreseeable future.  And the government either owns or is a partner in almost every business.

The first day in Keelung, we went on a bus tour of Taipai, the capital, some 45 minutes from Keelung.  It has its skyscrapers and until 2004 had the tallest building in the world, Taipai 101.  Now Dubai has the tallest building.  We took the elevator from the 5th floor to the 89th floor in 40 seconds and didn't feel a thing, except for our ears popping.  The 360 degree views were great, even though it was cloudy.  But what a fabulous shopping center on the first 5 floors.  Rick and I got lost and were late getting back to meet the guide.  Somehow we had inadvertently crossed over into the office buildings and were politely escorted out.  I don't know who buys all the merchandise from Diors, Tiffanys, Hermes, etc. but they are everywhere.

We visited the Memorial for War Heroes and Chiang Kai-shek memorial and saw the changing of the guards at both places.  Incredible how those soldiers can stand on the pedestals for 1 hour without moving or blinking.  They must be hypnotized.  I had my first taste of getting shoved and elbowed by a Chinese crowd wanting to see the action.  The same man twice, shoved me out of the way, and then on his way back, pushed me out of the way.  Our guide says they are tourists from China.  When he came back again, however, I had my elbow out, which he encountered.  Probably wasn't a smart thing to do.

The next 2 days we were in Keelung.  What a disappointment not to go to Japan.  Taiwan didn't make up for it.  Rick walked through the night markets, a couple of temples but the town itself is depressing.  Looks like nothing had been done to the buildings since the 1950s.  On my birthday, April 1, Rick ordered an ice cream cake for some of our friends and by the time we got to the room to cut it, there were 30 people there.  We had a great time. Good thing we had a big cake.  The next night we had dinner in "fine dining", a 6-course meal provided by the ship's kitchen for special occasions. 


So although China's population is growing, (in spite of the 1 child law) and there has been obvious rapid economic development  - luxury hotels, public transport and excellent restaurants, this has been tempered by the destruction of traditional housing, the construction of highways, soon choked with traffic. As population growth drives a consumer boom, China's energy needs are fast outstripping its capacity.  Tens of millions of Chinese are flocking to the cities, living in poor conditions and running small businesses from shoe-shining to knife-sharpening.  Dissatisfaction is widespread and increasing, particularly with regards to corruption, pollution, environmental degradation and the expensive, rising costs of living.

China: Hong Kong, Beijing, and Shanghai

Some friends and relatives have inquired as to why we have not written on our blog since Vietnam.  We  sailed  from Saigon (officially Ho Chi Minh City) on March 24 heading for Hong Kong.  We had extremely rough seas and most of us spent time in bed with seasick pills.  However, when we sailed into Hong Kong on Sat.,Mar. 26, it was fantastic.  The Captain advised everyone to be up and watch our entrance into the bay and it was spectacular.

Truthfully, I don't know how to write about China now, after having been in Hong Kong, Beijing and Shanghai.  My  impressions and ideas about "China" have changed considerably after only a week. With a population of 1.3 billion, it's 3x the US population and only slightly larger mass.  95% of the population live in the eastern portion of the continent.   On Sunday, March 27, we flew to Beijing where we spent 4 days and 3 nights, and then flew to Shanghai to meet the ship and spend 2 days in Shanghai.  So in  one week's time, we visited 3 metropolises in China, all completely different, but yet not.  So we're going to tackle one city at a time starting with Hong Kong.

HONG KONG

Hong Kong is actually comprised of many islands, plus Kowloon and the New Territories on mainland China.  In an area of 421 sq. miles, live a population of 7.1 million.  Hong Kong is the largest island.  Because of the small area, all of the building is upward.  From the moment we entered the harbor, the sight of thousands of high rise buildings was overwhelming.

In December 1984 the British agreed to hand over the entire colony when the lease of the New Territories ran out in 1997, rather than hang on to a truncated colony consisting of Kowloon and Hong Kong island. 

The agreement theoretically allows Hong Kong to retain its pre-1997 social, economic and legal systems for at least 50 years after 1997.  So Hong Kong became the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region on July 1, 1997.  China promised that its socialist economic system would not be imposed upon HK and that HK would enjoy a high degre of autonomy in all matters except foreign and defense affairs for the next 50 years.  Hence, China's policy of "one country, two systems" and the common view is that as long as HK continues to make money (and little noise) its autonomy is assured.  The European Commission has described HK as one of the freest societies in Asia despite not having full democracy.

Since it has been 50 years since I lived In Hong Kong and the New Territories, I was most amazed at the number of shopping centers.  We were docked right next to the Star Ferry, which are the ferries that take one from Kowloon to HK Island.  In order to get out to street level, it was necessary to go through this huge shopping center, with all the popular American brands plus some high-end retail shops.  Like Saigon, the shopping centers go up rather than out.

Rick and I went shopping, took a cab (no time to learn bus system or subway) to a jade market and then started down Nathan Road, the busiest road in Kowloon, looking for a Chinese Department Store, which is unheard of in a city of a million shops.  It was supposed to be at the corner of Nathan and Jordan, the busiest intersection.  We looked everywhere, only to discover that we were standing under the sign.  There are so many signs that it's almost impossible to find what you're looking for, especially since they are all in Chinese. Then we found a modern Chinese fast-food restaurant (hundreds of MacDonalds and Kentucky Frieds here) which specialized in bread!  French toast, fried bread, etc.  Wanted dim sum but no time for that.

That evening to celebrate Marie's birthday, we took her out to dinner.  Bob pleaded for an American style meal!  Here we are in the middle of the best food in the world and we ate at Dan Ryan Chicago Grill!   Actually it was very good - ribs, steak, baked potatoes.  After 3 months of curry, Chinese and assorted mixtures of food, we appreciated it.  To bed early as we're off to Beijing in the morning.

BEIJING

The next morning Sunday, March 27, at 11:35 am we flew to Beijing from the new Hong Kong airport.  The flight was great and we had a good, hot Chinese lunch during the 3 hour flight.  Again the attendants were polite, attentive but very demure.  (Do we still use that word?)  The new airport in Beijing, built for the Olympics, is beautiful and huge.  We walked a long way, however, to get through security and immigration, even though we had come from HK.

Beijing, the capital of China, lies just south of the rim of the Central Asian Steppes and is separated from the Gobi Desert by a green chain of mountains, over which The Great Wall runs. The Peking man was discovered in this area in 1929.  As you will recall from the Olympics, Beijing was very smoggy, partly because of the industry but also because the Gobi Desert is 120 miles west of the city and when the winds are from  the west, the situation is made worse.  It was clear when we were there because it was cold with spring just approaching- plum blossoms in bloom.

Like Hong Kong, Beijing is a city of towering high rise apartments and commercial buildings but is more spread out.  There are now 5 ring roads around Beijing trying to take the traffic away from the center of the city.  Beijing was cleaned up extensively for the Olympic games - no slums in Beijing!  Although there are bicycles, motorized cabs, and motorbikes, there are many more cars,  and expensive cars. 

We arrived in time to take 2-person pedicabs (a three-wheeled bicycle) to a dinner at a private residence where they served us a 9-course delicious, typical meal.  It was in a home where the woman made all of the courses - in a government-owned  2-bedroom home they rented for 55 yen a month.  No one owns real estate in China, only the building.  The woman then taught the students how to make dumplings, which BTW, I could live on.  We then went back to the pedicabs, down dark alleys and had a wild ride back to the bus and on to the hotel.  We stayed at the Holiday Inn Temple of Heaven.  HIs are nothing like HIs in the States.  This one was sleekly beautiful, full of marble, wood and the rooms were great.

Up at 7 am on Monday, had a  great breakfast buffet, although I have a hard time eating a Chinese breakfast which consists sof dumpling soup, various strange meats, fried bread, etc., but we could have omelets made for us, great bakery items, bacon, sausage, potatoes, etc.  Left at 8 am for the Forbidden City.  Our tour guide, named Fang, pronounced Fong, was excellent and our trip leader was Martie Fessenden, otherwise known as the Voice and who is also Asst. Ex. Dean, with her partner and 7-year old Sydney.

The Forbidden City built by more than 200,000 workers over a  period of 14 years and finished in 1420, is the largest palace in the world and has the best preserved and most complete collection of imperial architecture in China.  The film, The Last Emperor, was filmed there.  It was home to 14 emperors, select family members, concubines, and eunuch-servants.  The Forbidden City embodies Feng Shui architectural principles and includes 800 buildings and 8000 rooms, all within 170 acres.  Lots of walking.

We  then walked through the complex to Tiananmen Square, the world's largest public square and the very heart of modern China.  It has long been a gathering place for locals and visitors alike.  On the north side of the square is Tiananmen Gate.  It was from the balcony of the Rostrum on Oct. 1, 1949, the Mao Zedong, chairman of the Communist Paraty, proclaimed the founding of the People's Republic of China.  Mao gazes south from a huge portrait on the south side of the gate onto The Square.  At the height of the Cultural Revolution, hundreds of thousands of Red Guards crowded the Square,  In June 1989, the square was the scene of tragedy when student demonstrators were killed.  But noone talks about this. 

The Square is sandwiched between two grand gates:  The Gate of Heavenly Peace and the Front Gate.  Along the western edge is the Great Hall of the People.  THe National Museum of China lies along the eastern side.  The Monument to the People's Heroes, a 125 foot granite obelisk, commemorates those who died for the revoluntary cause.  It is eerie to see guards still standing as sentries on the Square.  Hundreds milled around the square, taking photos of one another.  One student came up to me and asked what the big deal was about Tiananmen Square.  Generation gaps!

We had lunch at a local restaurant and then visited  a Migrant School but neither Rick nor I went in.  It's more of a project for the students.  We then had dinner at Roast Duck Restaurant and it was wonderful.  To bed!  Long days.


Up early on Tuesday, went to a kung-fu school where they put on a demonstration  of kicking, hittting, throwing, holding, etc.  Students loved it as the kung fu students then gave lessons!  Had lunch at a local restaurant in a lovely park with plum blossoms everywhere.

And then we were off to  the Wall.  We went to the Mutianyu section, about 90 km from Beijing.  The Great Wall was built over 6,437 miles to protect residents from marauding nomads.  It was built in portions, not all at one time and linked in 259 BC and the Ming Dynasty fortified the wall, although that didn't stop the Manchu invasion in 1644.  Just getting up to the Wall to get into a gondola to take us there was a feat for me.  My knees were killing me and everyone was helping, but what a climb.  Rick was so excited.  I only climbed up the wall and all the others walked the wall for a kilometer where they took a toboggan back down.  Dan and I went on the gondola.  Dan was bus leader and has a walking disability also, so we were pals.  After a few hours, we left to attend an acrobatic show, which was okay and then went to dinner.  We were pooped.

A sad note:  2 female students camping on the wall overnight along with many other students, fell down some steps on the wall.  One girl's leg was severly cut but the other girl received head injuries which the other students had to deal with.  Someone found a door, they held her on the door, walked to find an car and then drove 3 hours before they found help.  She was treated in a hospital in Beijing, her mother arrived and  now we have heard that she has recovered consciousness and the ventilator has been removed.  She's lucky to be alive.  The Wall is very uneven, steep stairs with small steps, rises vertically suddenly and  in the dark, must be treacherous.

Okay, I'm publishing this and will pick up on Shanghai later.


















SHANGHAI

Finally, Shanghai.  It is the largest and most dynamic city in China with a population of 17 million people.  Its history coincides with colonalism and Britain's war with China.  The Treaty of  Nanking allowed the British to trade freely from certain ports, including Shanghai.  It was divided into concessions, where foreign nationals lived in miniature versions of first Britain, then France, the U.S. and Japan.  The Bund, or quay, along the Huangpu River is still lined with colonial buiildings.  In 1949, the Communists took over and the city was stripped of its grandeur.  However, in 1990, the Pudong area across the river from the Bund was declared a Special Eonomic Zone and a revival started for the city.  Both airports have been upgraded, new roads, subway lines, hotels and offices were built for the 2010 World Expo, which we missed.  Only the Chinese pavillion remains open.

The shopping is abundant and very upscale.  Nanjing Road  is a shopper's paradise and we went to Plaza 66 one night for dinner for dim sum with Stan and Joanne.  The restaurant was gorgeous, all glass and modern, and the shops in the mall were wonderful.  We actually ran into another couple from the ship in the restaurant!  We ended up having a "vertical" sundae at Hagendaz and visited with an Indian couple and their son who is going to Yale in the fall.  It's amazing the people one can meet.

We didn't take any tours since we only had 2 days and we were beat from the trip to Beijing.  But RIck did a lot of walking around the Bund.  Our view from the ship of both sides of the river was better than any view from any hotel.  The newer business section in the Pudong area has fantastic skyscrapers and interesting architecture.  The Bund area is lighted in golden lights that provide quite a contrast between the two sides.  The numerous floating restaurants with all their garish lights and colors provided the music for the setting.  We enjoyed our albeit short stay.